Can a down sleeping bag get wet?

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#976063 - 18.09.1323:09Re: Area of ​​application for down sleeping bags? [Re: Negnittoeg]
In reply to: Negnittoeg
Under which conditions of use is a water-repellent outer fabric recommended for a down sleeping bag and in which cases not?
You mean water-repellent and not waterproof?
Many surfaces today are somehow water-repellent, including those on sleeping bags.
If no water can get to the bag from the outside, then you don't need watertightness either.
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#976066 - 18.09.1323:30Re: Area of ​​application for down sleeping bags? [Re: Negnittoeg]
There is no general answer, because every manufacturer can define "water-repellent" differently for every model. I use a Yeti down sleeping bag with normal fabric without any problems in the tent. A "slightly water-repellent finish" (Yeti VIB 600) cannot do any harm and may help against drops of condensation and dirt. Of course, down sleeping bags for the open-air bivouac with waterproof membranes are also advertised and sold.

Because any really waterproof construction restricts breathability, this would be counterproductive with a down sleeping bag. (Except perhaps in the high alpine area, where the equipment is used for wear and tear and every gram counts). If the down sleeping bag is to last a long time, it is aired and dried daily. Water is created in the sleeping bag through sweating (even without feeling sweaty). Usually 0.5 to 1.5 l per night. This moisture must be able to dry as quickly and unchecked as possible. That's why I wouldn't use tightly coated fabrics on a down sleeping bag.
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#977228 - 25.09.1308:37Re: Area of ​​application for down sleeping bags? [Re: HyS]
Posts: 9334
You also have to ventilate synthetic fibers, even there the moisture must not accumulate during a tour over several days, otherwise mold stains and mold will form.

And the fibers clump together. In addition, a wet Kufasack also has no thermal output. I was allowed to try it out before.
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#977416 - 25.09.1321:27Re: Area of ​​application for down sleeping bags? [Re: bike sock]
Posts: 571
In reply to: Radlsocke
I have a WM badger ...
First of all: I also sleep in down and appreciate its properties.

Congratulations on this / your "cream piece"

Ok, of course, this is probably a "high flyer" and not made for normal mortals. Has a great (almost waterproof) fabric, but also its price. Now I understand your argument, which I now agree with.

I use an equivalent down (diamond down 860+) with Pertex Quantum in my DIY quilts. However, in a humid climate and several days of use, I notice that the down decreases in its loft. Some very humid days / nights this year made me think about a Climashield Apex continuous fiber insulation solution (with all its advantages / disadvantages).

I am very familiar with the careful handling of down duvets / bags on tour, but it cannot always be implemented - usually not when it is urgently needed.
So now to dry the down on a campsite or something similar - nope!

I am on foot or by bike and rarely spend the night on campsites, but often under the open sky or tarp without being considered a wild camper.
By the way, n.m.M. civil disobedience to finally break the former "brown laws" !! It works in some federal states - why not in all of them? In the Netherlands, Belgium, Denmark, no problem - only with the MICHELN? On the other hand, it is “just” an administrative offense - so what!
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#977559 - 26.09.1314:55Re: Area of ​​application for down sleeping bags? [Re: bike sock]
Again to the initial question of the TO: Many recommend the choice of a particularly water-repellent outer cover, because on the one hand the sleeping bag gains even more warmth, and on the other hand because it seems less complicated, since you hardly have to worry about other protection against moisture from the outside (You could also replace the outer cover with a separate bivouac sack, at least if you are sleeping in the open air or under a tarp). However, these outer shells are usually reflected in a somewhat more ambitious pricing structure. And the fluid accumulation in the down from the inside (through sweating) is not averted by the outer shell.

For winter sleeping bags for larger double-digit minus temperatures, I find water-repellent outer covers to be quite useful. Mainly because a winter sleeping bag itself has a large pack size and weight. An additional synthetic fiber sleeping bag would probably be better for the usage situation (because of the lower dew point shift), but then the problem quickly arises that you have so much large-volume luggage that you can no longer get it from the place without a pulka
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#977685 - 26.09.1323:08Re: Area of ​​application for down sleeping bags? [Re: bike sock]
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Posts: 326

Thank you for your many responses!

I (male, 35, normal temperature perception) would like the sleeping bag at least for tours until late autumn (November), in light winter or early spring (March / April) and only in our latitudes (no alpine tours), i.e. at temperatures up to Insert approx. -5 degrees (?). If one or the other snowshoe weekend down to -10 degrees would be possible with the sleeping bag, it would be even better, but it is not an absolute must.

My question about the upper material comes from the fact that my tent is comparatively short. Accordingly, it can hardly be avoided not to at least touch the inner tent with the sleeping bag foot end. Regardless of this, I am currently tending towards the financially cheaper variant without a water-repellent outer shell, but I would like to treat myself to a little more down (e.g. ME Classic 1000). Basically, you should be able to get the moisture problem under control with a bivouac sack or a plastic shopping bag over the foot of the sleeping bag, right? Why are temperatures around freezing point particularly problematic in this regard?

I look forward to hearing from you again. I would be happy to receive any product suggestions in addition to the basic principles! A lovely evening

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#977691 - 26.09.1323:26Re: Area of ​​application for down sleeping bags? [Re: Negnittoeg]
In reply to: Negnittoeg
Basically, you should be able to get the moisture problem under control with a bivouac sack or a plastic shopping bag over the foot of the sleeping bag, right?

In principle yes, but only if you are not a rotary sleeper. For a while I tried to put the rain jacket over the foot section - no chance, it slipped down in no time: The material is too smooth.

In reply to: Negnittoeg
Why are temperatures around freezing point particularly problematic in this regard?

If it's cold and wet outside around freezing point, it doesn't dry off, fog lingers for a long time, etc. In practice, this means that you can have the best winter sleeping bag, but still freeze due to the wet cold. In the same sleeping bag, minus 10 degrees are perfect again because it's more dry and cold. For longer tours at lower temperatures, a VBL (Vapor Barrier Liner) is also recommended so that the water that the body releases at night does not get into the down layer if possible. Especially when you are out and about with snowshoes, a set of dry clothes is very comfortable only for night. You could also increase the thermal output of the sleeping bag with a warm break jacket - but the comfort limit of the sleeping bag should not be too tight, rather a bit of reserve, as you freeze faster if the day was strenuous.

Manufacturer: Don't try on a World Cup, otherwise you won't want to have another one (But sometimes you are lucky and find a special offer). On their website there is a model page with metric measurements, so you also have comparison values. Alternatively, you can also hear good things about Nahanny (made to measure with advice and selection of fabrics), Roberts (made to measure with advice and selection of fabrics), Highlite, Cumulus (those in Poland), Feathered Friends, Valandre, ... Because of the down prices, it can be wise, not waiting too long.

Last modified by radlsocke (26.09.1323: 37)
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